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Ford C4 Transgo Shift Kit Not Returning to First Gear UPDATED

Ford C4 Transgo Shift Kit Not Returning to First Gear

To improve shift quality in Ford's venerable C4, you can look to B&M Racing & Performance, which has been producing some of the all-time manual performance parts in the world for more than than l years. The B&M story dates back to 1953, when Bob Spar and Mort Schuman put their heads together and founded not merely a great visitor, but likewise an establishment for the automotive masses that's still going strong. Their first effort was known as the B&M Hydro Stick iv-speed automatic.

B&1000'due south vast feel with automatic transmissions includes the Ford C4 Transpak kit (PN 50227), which is for 1964–1966 C4 Dual- Range Dark-green Dot transmissions, a rare care for for these early outset-generation C4s with their unique valve bodies. The kit comes in three bones configurations: Heavy Duty, for towing; Street, for cruising and elevate racing; and Competition, for all-out elevate racing. While almost everyone else in the transmission business organization has given upwards on the Dual- Range C4, B&G has stayed with it, making house shifts and longevity possible for these outset generation C4 units.

This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD & Alter FORD C4 & C6 Automated TRANSMISSIONS. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you tin can visit this link:

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Although I refer to this B&G Transpak kit, my chief focus is the more-mutual 1970–1982 C4 manual and the Shift Improver Kit (PN 50262) available for these slush boxes. This B&M kit is engineered to piece of work with all 1970–1982 C4 transmissions. To make the most of a Shift Improver Kit, yous have to outset with a healthy transmission—with fresh clutches, bands, and seals.

B&M suggests allowing your C4's transmission pan to cool downward before removal because these units operate at temperatures shut to 250 degrees F. A cool-down period also allows contaminants to settle in the sump before removal and drainage. Although it's a expert thought to modify all transmission fluid, information technology's not e'er good to drain the torque converter because you run some chance of pump cavitation and a dry out startup, which you do non desire.

Another thing to prevent is fresh fluid "shocking" the seals. This ways you want some of the former fluid (as long equally it isn't burned or heavily contaminated with clutch/band material) mixed in with the new. Though this has been suggested to me by transmission professionals, it may not be gospel. Simply you do desire to keep a certain amount of fluid in the converter to continue the pump primed if for no other reason.

Disassembly

Pace-i: Remove Bolts & Drain Fluid

After your C4 has cooled downward, carefully remove pan bolts and allow fluid to drain. Detect fluid color and consistency. If it is burned (brown in color), you demand more than a shift improvement kit. Fluid should be pink and odour fresh. Burned fluid is a sign of deeper troubles and the demand for a teardown.

Step-2: Examine Filter (Critical Inspection)

Remove filter and examine screen for contaminates (friction material). Take notation of bolt locations and lengths. Fluid here looks pinkish and clean indicating a good for you C4 transmission. Valve body removal involves several bolts using a 3/8-inch socket.

Step-3: Remove/Supercede Throttle Valve

With each transmission service, supercede the throttle valve, also known as the vacuum modulator. It's a good idea to remove the throttle valve and rod prior to valve body removal. Continue close runway of the actuating rod because information technology's easy to misplace.

Step-4: Prepare Shift Kit

This is B&Thousand's Shift Improver Kit (PN 50262) for 1970– 1982 C4 transmissions. Y'all may become with this simple kit or the more complete Transpak (not shown), which includes filter, throttle valve, springs, and valve parts. Either way, follow B&Thou's instructions carefully.

Step-5: Use New Filter & Gasket

When you install any B&K kit, you should also install a new filter and gasket for best results.

Footstep-half-dozen: Remove Valve Body Bolts (Documentation Required)

There are two halves to the C4 valve body. Remove all bolts using a 5/sixteen-inch socket, taking notation of where each bolt goes. Remove the manual shift detent final.

Step-7: Remove Drain-Dorsum Valve (Important!)

The torque converter drain-back valve comes complimentary when the filter is removed. 1 fault I hear nigh more than than any other is this check valve being lost during C4 service. Whenever you're replacing the filter, don't forget this very of import part, which is easily lost in a drain pan.

Step-8: Remove More Bolts

Use a 5/xvi- inch socket to remove the remainder of the bolts on the top half.

Step-9: Rotate Valve Body

Before continuing, flip valve body over. This prevents check assurance from beingness lost.

Footstep-x: Remove Separator Plate

Remove the separator plate from the bottom half.

Footstep-eleven: Note Location of Check Balls ( Documentation Required)

On the left is the bottom half of the valve body with filter. On the right is the upper half with valves. Both halves have cheque assurance, which should exist properly located and noted during disassembly. B&M'south instructions are very specific about which assurance go back and which ones practise non.

Stride-12: Remove Finish Plates

Remove the finish plate for the transition valve, 2-3 back-out valve, and cut-back valve.

Step-thirteen: Remove Valves

Carefully dispense and remove dorsum-out, transition, and cut-back valves.

Pace-14: Replace Springs (Professional person Mechanic Tip)

When you remove the back-out, cut-back, and transition valves you may find that the springs have already been discarded during a previous functioning buildup and two 7/32-inch cheque assurance were installed. B&1000 suggests discarding the back-out and transition-valve springs as office of the PN-50262 modifications. 1 seven/32-inch ball and the brass disc in the kit do the aforementioned job every bit these balls.

Reassembly

Footstep-1: Reinstall Valves

Reinstall the dorsum-out, cutting-back, and transition valves. Valves must be affluent.

Stride-2: Reinstall End Plate (Professional Mechanic Tip)

Reinstall and torque the terminate plate; Ford suggests 20 to xxx in-lbs. B&M prefers10 to 15 in-lbs, at the most.

Step-3: Install Check Ball (If Applicative)

A 7/32-inch check ball is installed here on all except Pinto, per B&M's PN-50262 instructions. Discard the original safe disc (arrow).

Step-4: Examine Separator Plates (Critical Inspection)

Examine both separator plates to make up one's mind a proper class of activeness. B&M suggests laying plates on top of each other to determine compatibility. In other words, make sure the B&Thou plate matches your C4'southward valve trunk.

Footstep-5: Drill Separator Plate

Use your C4'due south separator plate as a guide for drilling and follow this analogy, which applies to all C4 applications except Pinto in 1970–1982.

Step-6: Drill Pinto Plate (If Applicable)

If you accept a Pinto C4 separator plate, drill per this illustration.

Stride-7: Drill Pinto Plate (If Applicable)

If you lot have a street/strip application, drill 2 3/xvi-inch holes per B&M's instructions. After these holes are drilled, take a larger bit and deburr the edges.

Step-8: Install Check Brawl

Install a vii/32-inch check ball hither.

Step-9: Install Separator Plate (Professional Tip)

Install separator plate every bit shown. B&Chiliad suggests not using a gasket hither.

Stride-ten: Reunite Halves

Reunite the halves, making sure all check balls are in place. Utilize transmission assembly lube to secure check balls before assembly.

Step-xi: Torque Bolts (Torque Fasteners)

In a crisscross style, torque valve-trunk half bolts to xx to 30 in-lbs each, per Ford. This might be besides much torque, with the run a risk of pulling threads out.

Step-12: Reinstall Drain-Back Valve

Reinstall the torque converter drainback valve with valve cup toward the inside.

Step-13: Reinstall Transmission Valve Detent

Reinstall the manual valve detent.

Pace-xiv: Audit Assembled Valve Body

Assembled 1970–1982 valve trunk should wait like this. Remember, there are two basic types of transmission shift valves: ane with an external detent (shown) and one with an internal detent (not shown). Internal detent is 1964 through the early 1970s. External detent came forth in the 1970s. Make sure you don't go these two types mixed upwards.

Step-fifteen: Notation Shift Valve and Kickdown

A closeup of the manual shift valve (acme) and the kickdown (bottom).

Step-16: Notation Detent

An earlier C4 valve body with internal manual valve detent, which is quickly identifiable by the manual valve detents in the valve itself. External detent is smooth.

Pace-17: Inspect Transpak Kit

This is B&M'due south Transpak kit (PN 50227) for 1964–1966 C4 Dual-Range transmissions.

Pace-18: Drill Separator Plate

If you accept the PN-50227 kit, use the pattern on the left to drill the separator plate for 1964 Dual-Range only. For 1965–1966 C4 Dual-Range, follow the pattern on the correct.

Step-19: Avert Leakage (Professional Mechanic Tip)

Because C4 pans are notorious for leakage, go with a new reproduction pan or dolly yours directly. Leon's Transmissions suggests a thin film of Permatex Form-A-Gasket (nonhardening) on the pan side of your gasket. Non all transmission professionals concur with this approach, but information technology works.

Step-xx: Adjust Throttle Valve

Later on you've properly reinstalled the valve body with manual and kickdown valves correctly positioned, install the new B&Thousand throttle valve. Adjustment calls for turning clockwise to increment pressure and counterclockwise to decrease pressure level. One full turn clockwise increases control pressure level by 2 to 3 pounds, and counterclockwise reduces pressure by 2 to 3 pounds.

Written past George Reid and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc

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